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Buying · 7 min read

A 20-minute inspection that catches most expensive surprises

You will not strip a car down in somebody’s driveway. You can still find the faults that turn a good buy into a loss, in the time it takes to drink a cup of tea.

Maruti Baleno Zeta

You are not going to put the car on a lift in a seller's driveway. What you can do is work through the same short routine every time, in the same order, so nothing gets skipped on the day you are in a hurry. Twenty minutes catches most of what costs real money.

Walk the panels first

Stand at each corner and sight down the side of the car. Ripples, mismatched shade and inconsistent panel gaps are the fastest way to spot repair work. Open and close every door, the bonnet and the boot. A door that needs a shove has been off the car or the shell has moved.

Check the paint depth by eye where you can: fresh paint on one panel of an eight-year-old car is not a problem in itself, but it is a question worth asking, and the answer tells you what kind of seller you are dealing with.

Look underneath and behind

Lift the boot floor. The spare wheel well is where accident repair hides, because nobody bothers to finish it neatly. Look for weld marks, filler and mismatched sealant. Do the same under the bonnet along the inner wings and the slam panel.

Rust at the sills and wheel arches matters more in coastal and heavy-rain regions than most price guides account for.

Engine and gearbox, cold

Insist on a cold start. A warm engine hides a great deal. Listen for the first ten seconds: rattle that settles, smoke colour, whether the idle steadies. Check oil for a milky film, coolant level and colour, and whether the service book matches the odometer.

On an automatic, pay attention to how the first two shifts feel from cold. A slow or jerky engagement is expensive and it does not improve.

The drive that actually tells you something

Ten minutes, mixed: a rough patch, a speed breaker at an angle, one stretch above 60 kmph, and a full-lock turn in both directions. You are listening for suspension knocks, feeling for pull under braking, and watching whether the steering returns to centre. Turn the music off and the air conditioning on.

Papers, in the same visit

Chassis and engine numbers against the RC. Insurance expiry and claim history. Service records if they exist. If the seller cannot produce the RC on the day, treat everything else you have just checked as provisional.

Write it down before you leave

Condition notes are worth nothing three cars later. Record what you found while you are standing next to the vehicle, photographs included. When you price the car a week on, the difference between "needs tyres" and "needs two tyres and a battery, around eleven thousand" is the difference between a considered price and a guess.

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Written from the lot, not a desk.

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